In The Winery Part 3: Barrel Fermentation

Sometimes we so easily take barrel ageing of wine for granted that we forget how controversial it can be, and how much the function of the barrel has changed over the years. We forget, for example, that barrels were originally used to store and ship everything, literally from soup to nuts, until the development of metal containers eliminated the need for expensive cooperage.

While we often consider the addition of flavor, aromatic and textural components to be the barrel's primary contribution to wine, that overlooks the revolutionary aspects of its functional design. Its bulging cylindrical shape allowed it to be rolled and spun, and its strength allowed it to withstand rough handling and extended transport conditions and to be stacked either horizontally or vertically. These were enormous advantages over the clay amphorae and other vessels that were used prior to the time that the Iron Age Celts began wide use of the barrel. And, as vintners soon found out, the barrel's bulge meant that wines could be more easily and effectively clarified, since with the barrel in horizontal position, sediment could be collected in the bulge and the wine could be easily racked off the sediment.

But, when we walk into a cellar full of barriques, it is easy to forget all this; we leave the world of mechanics and enter the world of chemistry. The interplay of anthocyans, tannin, phenolics, lactones and oxygen is uniquely transformative, producing rich hues, suppleness and complexity where there was once murky, astringent, simple wine. As with most important discoveries, the effect of oak ageing on wine was unexpected, as merchants began noticing more rapid and profound changes in wine shipped in wood as opposed to clay or other materials.

Ageing itself became a powerful and influential aspect of the wine trade, as merchants with the wherewithal to maintain large stocks of aged wine could always command a premium price. This in turn helped define stylistic standards of winemaking that are still in force today. The model of Bordeaux, ageing new wines for up to two years in oak barrels, is still the norm, in both the old and new worlds.

The concept of barrel fermentation of white wines, chiefly Chardonnay, traditional to the Cote d'Or, was the next natural step as winemakers concluded that fermentation on the lees in a barrel could better integrate the flavors of the barrel while protecting the fermenting wine from oxygen. This technique is now widely used by winemakers throughout the world in regions where Chardonnay is grown.

The difference now, of course, is that for many wineries, flying the banner of More Is Better, the use of 100% new oak has become commonplace. The trend towards excessive extraction of flavor, either from prolonged skin contact or ageing exclusively in new barrels, is a highly controversial topic of conversation among winemakers; suffice to say, as you will see in the above video, that our winemaker Mark Lyon falls squarely in the camp of classic winemaking.

Artistry is at the core of every aspect of cooperage, from the making to the using, and as Mark points out, the close, historic links between coopers and winemakers is one of the great joys of our business.

Happy Cinco de Mayo!

Happy Cinco de Mayo! Cinco de Mayo celebrates the victory of Mexican forces over French troops during the battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862. While not a national holiday in Mexico, and not Mexican Independence Day as often thought, it is an important celebration of Mexican pride. There is some evidence that, had France won the battle of Puebla, they would have been in a better position to aid the American Confederacy in the Civil War, raging at the same time. So perhaps there is all the more reason to celebrate the Mexican victory at Puebla! And while beer might be the usual libation on this day, we like to raise a glass of wine to honor all of our fellow workers of Mexican descent and toast Viva Mexico!

Spring Is Here-Start Walking!

While there's been a lot of talk about frost during the cold nights we've been having of late, the days here in Sonoma are showing undeniable signs of spring. Although we could always do with more rain, and we may indeed see a bit more next week, the pleasant days are bringing people out to the streets and Square of Sonoma in ever increasing numbers.

If you're looking for a fun way to get your walk on, the inimitable George Webber is starting up a new series of walking tours that will end here in the Marketplace at Sebastiani. The tours will touch on all of the historic points of interest in and around the Square and will take about two hours. $20 gets you the tour, including entry fees to the Sonoma State Historic Park, the Sonoma Barracks and the San Francisco Solano Mission.

Are you ready boots? Start walking!

A Winemaker's Influences

Winemaker Mark Lyon discusses what inspires him in his winemaking style. His high regard for Burgundy certainly informs the finesse and balance we find in his wines, a style that is sometimes difficult to find in California!

Wilson Ranch Carneros Map

Here's a map we put together of the Wilson Ranch, showing the make up of the different blocks and proximity of other well known vineyards in the area. Thanks Erinn for pitching in as cartographer! Click here to link to a downloadable pdf.

Sommelier Journal

Tom Wark at the always readable Fermentations has a great interview with David Vogels, publisher of a new magazine titled Sommelier Journal. We're always happy to see new sources of intelligent, informed wine education, and by the looks of the first issue, this magazine will make a significant contribution. Here's a tip o' the glass to David and the Sommelier Journal-we wish him all success! Click here to link to the interview at Fermentations. Click here to go to Sommelier Journal.

In The Winery Part 2: Pressing and Settling

No, its not a new pilates move; it's part of how we make Chardonnay at Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery. Balance and restraint are important to us in our Chardonnays, which requires very delicate handling of the juice prior to fermentation. Our state of the art tank press and settling tanks give winemaker Mark Lyon extremely high quality juice to work with!

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