In The Winery Part 3: Barrel Fermentation

Sometimes we so easily take barrel ageing of wine for granted that we forget how controversial it can be, and how much the function of the barrel has changed over the years. We forget, for example, that barrels were originally used to store and ship everything, literally from soup to nuts, until the development of metal containers eliminated the need for expensive cooperage.

While we often consider the addition of flavor, aromatic and textural components to be the barrel's primary contribution to wine, that overlooks the revolutionary aspects of its functional design. Its bulging cylindrical shape allowed it to be rolled and spun, and its strength allowed it to withstand rough handling and extended transport conditions and to be stacked either horizontally or vertically. These were enormous advantages over the clay amphorae and other vessels that were used prior to the time that the Iron Age Celts began wide use of the barrel. And, as vintners soon found out, the barrel's bulge meant that wines could be more easily and effectively clarified, since with the barrel in horizontal position, sediment could be collected in the bulge and the wine could be easily racked off the sediment.

But, when we walk into a cellar full of barriques, it is easy to forget all this; we leave the world of mechanics and enter the world of chemistry. The interplay of anthocyans, tannin, phenolics, lactones and oxygen is uniquely transformative, producing rich hues, suppleness and complexity where there was once murky, astringent, simple wine. As with most important discoveries, the effect of oak ageing on wine was unexpected, as merchants began noticing more rapid and profound changes in wine shipped in wood as opposed to clay or other materials.

Ageing itself became a powerful and influential aspect of the wine trade, as merchants with the wherewithal to maintain large stocks of aged wine could always command a premium price. This in turn helped define stylistic standards of winemaking that are still in force today. The model of Bordeaux, ageing new wines for up to two years in oak barrels, is still the norm, in both the old and new worlds.

The concept of barrel fermentation of white wines, chiefly Chardonnay, traditional to the Cote d'Or, was the next natural step as winemakers concluded that fermentation on the lees in a barrel could better integrate the flavors of the barrel while protecting the fermenting wine from oxygen. This technique is now widely used by winemakers throughout the world in regions where Chardonnay is grown.

The difference now, of course, is that for many wineries, flying the banner of More Is Better, the use of 100% new oak has become commonplace. The trend towards excessive extraction of flavor, either from prolonged skin contact or ageing exclusively in new barrels, is a highly controversial topic of conversation among winemakers; suffice to say, as you will see in the above video, that our winemaker Mark Lyon falls squarely in the camp of classic winemaking.

Artistry is at the core of every aspect of cooperage, from the making to the using, and as Mark points out, the close, historic links between coopers and winemakers is one of the great joys of our business.

Spring Is Here-Start Walking!

While there's been a lot of talk about frost during the cold nights we've been having of late, the days here in Sonoma are showing undeniable signs of spring. Although we could always do with more rain, and we may indeed see a bit more next week, the pleasant days are bringing people out to the streets and Square of Sonoma in ever increasing numbers.

If you're looking for a fun way to get your walk on, the inimitable George Webber is starting up a new series of walking tours that will end here in the Marketplace at Sebastiani. The tours will touch on all of the historic points of interest in and around the Square and will take about two hours. $20 gets you the tour, including entry fees to the Sonoma State Historic Park, the Sonoma Barracks and the San Francisco Solano Mission.

Are you ready boots? Start walking!

In The Winery Part 2: Pressing and Settling

No, its not a new pilates move; it's part of how we make Chardonnay at Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery. Balance and restraint are important to us in our Chardonnays, which requires very delicate handling of the juice prior to fermentation. Our state of the art tank press and settling tanks give winemaker Mark Lyon extremely high quality juice to work with!

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A View From The Hill

Saturday April 5th we hosted a group of 10 wine and travel journalists from around the world here at the winery for a hike up the Overlook Trail on Shocken Hill and through Cherryblock Vineyard, finishing up with lunch and a tasting at the winery. With clear, sunny weather, the views over the town of Sonoma were awe inspiring. The occasion was to inaugurate a new series of walking tours in Sonoma offered by Zephyr Adventures, an adventure travel company out of Montana.

Marc Cuneo gave the group a fascinating glimpse into the Sebastiani family's history, explaining how his great grandfather Samuele worked in the rock quarry up on the hill, eventually starting his winemaking career in California by selling wine to the quarry workers for a nickle a cup. Or, as Marc says, so the story goes...

In The Winery Part 1: From The Crush Pad

This is part one of a series of videos that explain how we make wines at Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery. For those of you who love detail, and you know who you are, here's a more in depth look by winemaker Marc Cuneo at our custom built grape handling equipment on our crush pad. When it comes to gentle grape handling, it doesn't get any better than this!